Guatemala, a vibrant and diverse country in Central America, is known for its stunning landscapes, rich culture, and historical significance. Located between Mexico, Belize, Honduras, and El Salvador, Guatemala boasts a diverse topography that ranges from volcanic mountains and rainforests to serene lakes and coastlines along the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea.
At the heart of Guatemala's cultural heritage are the Maya people, whose ancient civilization once flourished in this region. The Maya were renowned for their advanced knowledge in astronomy, mathematics, and architecture, leaving behind impressive archaeological sites such as Tikal, Quiriguá, and Copán. These ancient cities, with their majestic temples, palaces, and intricate carvings, offer a glimpse into the sophisticated society that existed thousands of years ago.
Today, the Maya descendants continue to play a significant role in Guatemalan society, preserving their languages, traditions, and crafts. The vibrant markets, colorful textiles, and traditional ceremonies are a testament to their enduring cultural legacy. In this post, I will take you through my day-by-day immersion into Guatemala's rich heritage by exploring ancient ruins, participating in local festivals, and engaging with the welcoming Maya communities. Additionally, I will share valuable advice that I wish I had known before my trip
Day 1: From Belize to Guatemala
We landed in Belize and hired transportation (
Belize Shuttle by William) to take us to the Guatemalan border. To exit Belize, we had to pay 40 dollars. We crossed the border on foot, where another vehicle was waiting to take us to Tikal. During the journey, we began to immerse ourselves in the stunning landscapes of Central America and observe the local way of life.
Upon arriving at the Tikal Inn, we were amazed at the fact that we were in the heart of a rainforest. The hotel is surrounded by the sounds of birds, monkeys, insects, and other wildlife, creating a truly immersive natural experience.
If I visited Tikal again for the first time, I would definitely stay at the Tikal Inn. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience, despite a few inconveniences. Since the hotel is located deep in the forest, electricity is only available during breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Outside these times, there is no electricity, and there is no air conditioning either. However, these minor inconveniences are a small price to pay for the incredible experience of staying in such a beautiful and unique environment.
Day 2: Tika National Part
We woke up around 4 a.m. for the sunrise tour, which you can book directly upon arrival at the hotel. They provide all the necessary information at check-in. You will need to purchase two tickets: a regular entry and an early-hours entry. A guide is mandatory for this tour, as walking through the forest in the middle of the night can be dangerous without one. If you don't have a guide, you'll need to visit during regular hours.
After about 30 minutes of walking, we arrived at a temple with long stairs. At the top, we enjoyed beautiful views and the marvelous concert of animals waking up. It was a spiritual experience! Our guide shared his rich culture with us, which we all appreciated. However, by the time we reached the top of the temple, the sun had already risen. So, if you take this tour, make sure to tell your guide you want to be at the top of the temple before sunrise.
Despite this, it was still a beautiful experience. Additionally, we had plenty of time to explore Tikal and take great pictures before the large groups of tourists arrived from Flores.
Day 3: Flores
We woke up early and took a shuttle to Santa Elena with the locals, a service we booked through our hotel. Up to this point, we had been paying for everything with a credit card and U.S. dollars, so we planned to visit a bank to exchange money at the best rate. To our surprise, it was extremely difficult to exchange money because the bank refused to accept bills that were not in perfect condition. After some discussion, they agreed to exchange only $200 for us.
With our limited budget, we took a tuk-tuk to Flores, a beautiful colonial town. Although small, it is definitely worth a visit. Here, we managed to exchange some more money at a hotel called "Hotel Casa Amelia" at a rate of 7.2 quetzals per dollar, though they also exchanged a small amount for us.
In the afternoon, we took a boat to San Miguel and walked to a viewpoint that offered an overview of Flores. While the view is nice, it is easy to get lost on the way from the port in San Miguel to the viewpoint. Therefore, I recommend either taking a tuk-tuk or wearing good walking shoes—not flip-flops. From there, we headed to a beautiful beach on Lake Peten Itza. The day ended watching a beautiful sunset at the lake. We cannot miss this beautiful spectacle!
Day 4: From Santa Elena to Livingston.
We woke up early and went to the bus station in Santa Elena. Here, we take the bus with locals to Rio Dulce. On the way there, the bus was broken and we had to wait 1.5 hours for another bus to pick us up. During this time we interact with locals and continue learning from them. Around 1:30pm, we arrived at Rio Dulce. Here we took a motorboat to Livingston, the way there is beautiful and worth experiencing. On arrival, we enjoyed learning about the Garifuna culture.
The Garifuna people, also known as Garinagu, originated in the early 17th century from the intermingling of West African shipwreck survivors and the Indigenous Caribe and Arawak people on the island of St. Vincent. In the late 18th century, the British exiled them to Roatán off the coast of Honduras, from where they spread to Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, and Nicaragua.
Garifuna culture is vibrant, and characterized by rich music, dance, and oral traditions. Their music, especially the drumming and the energetic Punta dance, plays a central role in cultural ceremonies. The Garifuna language, a blend of Arawak, Carib, and African influences, is recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage.
This day, we explored Livingston and tried the famous "Tapado," although I didn't quite enjoy it. Livingston is an Afro-Caribbean town that is accessible only by boat, offering visitors a unique tropical scenery. Livingston's isolation contributes to its preserved heritage and relaxed atmosphere, making it a distinctive destination for travelers seeking an authentic Caribbean experience in Guatemala.
Day 5: Livingston
You can take several tours from Livingston, such as "Playa Blanca" and Tiger Cave, among others. However, we were more interested in immersing ourselves in the local culture than visiting tourist spots. That's why we were delighted to discover a map at "Casa Rosa" recommending a scenic walk where we could experience the true Caribbean vibes.
The map guided us along the beach towards "Seven Altars," a popular attraction in the area. Although the walk was lengthy, it was rewarding. While we didn't quite make it to "Seven Altars," we did reach a picturesque hanging bridge before taking a tuk-tuk back to town. Unfortunately, I didn't capture a photo of the map, but if you visit Livingston, I highly recommend visiting "Casa Rosa." They offer boat bookings back to Rio Dulce and provide extensive information about things to do in Livingston.
Day 6: From Livingston to Lanquin.
This day was long and tiring. We even considered not going to Lanquin. Is it really worthy to go there? Oh my goodness, yes, it is worthy.
This morning we take the motor boat back to Rio Dulce where we finally reach an ATM where we can get quetzals. Our bank in US and the bank in Guatemala charged us extra fees for the transaction.
A few hours after our arrival to Rio Dulce, a guy from Lanquin picks us up to take us to his town. We travel for around 5 hours along a hilly and curvy road that takes us to Lanquin. On our way there, we took advantage of talking with our driver to continue learning about their rich culture.
Laquin is a small indigenous village located in the highlands of Guatemala, known for its picturesque rich cultural heritage. Laquin is surrounded by green mountains and offers stunning views of the Quiché region. The village is predominantly inhabited by indigenous Maya K'iche' people, who maintain traditional customs and practices. In this town, you can experience authentic Maya culture, including colorful traditional attire, ancient rituals, and vibrant markets.
During our stay in Laquin, we spent three nights at "Casa Mari," a small and affordable hotel with clean rooms and exceptionally hospitable owners. While we didn't get to meet Mari herself, her daughter-in-law Olga and her husband David warmly welcomed us and went above and beyond to ensure we had a memorable experience in their home. They were always willing to assist and make our stay comfortable. Traveling isn't just about the places you visit; it's also about the people you meet along the way, and it was great to meet Olga and David.
Day 7: Exploring Lanquin
We started the day in Tuqtuquilal with an enriching cacao tour. We enjoyed learning about the cooperative and the significance of cacao in Maya traditions and rituals. To my knowledge, there are three cacao tours in this area: Tuqtuquilal, Utopia Cacao, and Julhalaw. I only discovered the last one upon arrival. It definitely needs more visibility for promotion.
After the tour and a well-deserved lunch, we headed to "Parque Nacional Grutas de Lanquín." There, we explored the caves and swam in a stunning blue river. However, the next day we realized it was a mistake not to go directly to Semuc Champey after the cacao tour. The gorgeous waters and breathtaking landscape of Semuc Champey are worth at least two days of exploring. You don't need a guide to explore Semuc Champey but it is worth hiring one to explore the area as a local.
Day 8: Semuc Champey.
On this day, we finally visited the famous Semuc Champey. Having traveled a long distance to get here, our excitement was palpable. For the tour, we hired David, the owner of the small hotel where we stayed in Lanquín. I highly recommend him because he only takes small groups, which makes a big difference. You don't want to spend your time waiting for others during the tour.
We began by exploring the caves. I was initially very scared, but other tourists assured me it was worth the experience, so I went for it. David was incredibly helpful, guiding me through the cave and even taking us to areas that tourists typically don't see.
After the cave tour, we had lunch at a nice, but not cheap, place. They claimed it was the only place to eat before reaching Semuc Champey, but this isn't true. There are more food and water options right before entering the park. In Guatemala, you can always find a place to eat and drink.
Post-lunch, we climbed numerous stairs to reach the viewpoint. Though the climb was challenging, the views from the top were astonishing.
Finally, we went to the pools and swam in several of them. Semuc Champey is one of the most beautiful landscapes I have ever seen, making the entire journey and effort absolutely worthwhile.
That night we had a great dinner at "Vinas hotel". One of the best meals that I had in Guatemala.
Day 9: From Lanquin to Antigua.
After a 10-hour drive from Lanquín, we finally arrived in Antigua. Despite our fatigue, we were eager to explore this charming city before dinner.
Antigua, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is known for its well-preserved Spanish Baroque-influenced architecture and cobblestone streets. The city is surrounded by volcanoes and dotted with vibrant colonial buildings, historic churches, and bustling markets. Its rich history and cultural heritage make it a must-visit destination in Guatemala.
We spent the evening wandering through the picturesque streets, soaking in the enchanting atmosphere and admiring the beautiful architecture, before settling down for a much-needed dinner and a drink in a club.
Day 10: Exploring Antigua
This day began with my husband and I experiencing some mild stomach sickness, but we were still in good spirits. We started with breakfast at Patsy, which quickly became our favorite restaurant in Antigua, leading us to return multiple times.
We spent the day exploring Antigua, beginning at the "Convento de las Capuchinas." There, we found a map highlighting all the interesting points to visit in the city, which proved to be very helpful.
For lunch, we ate at the local market, which was both affordable and an enjoyable experience. Finally, we managed to exchange our money in Antigua, resolving our issues with Quetzales and making the rest of our stay much smoother.
Day 11: Volcan Acatenango
I started the day with more severe stomach sickness but remained determined to climb Acatenango and observe Volcán Fuego. Acatenango and Fuego are two stunning volcanoes near Antigua, Guatemala, forming part of the Central American Volcanic Arc. Acatenango, a dormant volcano standing at 3,976 meters (13,045 feet), offers a challenging yet rewarding hike with breathtaking summit views, especially at sunrise. Fuego, at 3,763 meters (12,346 feet), is one of Central America’s most active volcanoes, known for its frequent, dramatic eruptions that can be safely observed from Acatenango's slopes. The combination of Acatenango's serene summit and Fuego's fiery displays makes for a unique and unforgettable adventure.
For this experience, we chose V-Hiking with Elvin and his team. They organized three groups for the climb: fast walkers, steady walkers, and those needing extra time and rest. Upon arrival at the camp, we were provided with private cabins instead of tents, which proved very helpful as it was cold and windy at night. Additionally, the camp featured a great deck for enjoying the unique views of the erupting volcano.
After lunch and some rest, some people hiked closer to Volcán Fuego, but I decided to stay at camp due to the cloudy weather and to conserve my energy for the next day's climb to Acatenango's summit. Unfortunately, the high altitude made my condition worse, and I became increasingly weak and dehydrated.
The V-Hiking team was incredibly helpful, providing plant-based medicine, extra toilet paper, and anything else needed to support me and another sick traveler. I strongly recommend this team, not only for their excellent facilities but also because they are a local Guatemalan company, ensuring that the money spent by tourists stays in the country. Choosing them is a great way to support the local economy while enjoying a well-organized and memorable adventure.
Day 12: From Acatenango to Panajachel.
Unfortunately, a 4x4 had to pick up me and another traveler because we were too weak to walk down the volcano. If you live at sea level, I strongly recommend spending at least 5 or 6 days in Antigua and the surrounding areas to acclimate to the altitude. Additionally, I only recommend attempting the climb to Acatenango if you are in excellent health. Mountains are challenging, as any experienced hiker knows, and Acatenango, with its nearly 4,000 meters of elevation and camp located at 3,600 meters, requires serious consideration before undertaking the hike.
The 4x4 took us to Elvin's house, where I could shower, and his family offered us tea and watermelon to replenish electrolytes. They also arranged for a service to take us directly to Panajachel.
Panajachel, located on the northeastern shore of Lake Atitlán, is a picturesque town known for its stunning lake views and vibrant culture. Often referred to as the gateway to Lake Atitlán, it boasts a bustling main street, Calle Santander, lined with shops, restaurants, and artisan markets. The town offers numerous outdoor activities such as kayaking, hiking, and boat tours to nearby indigenous villages. Panajachel's blend of natural beauty, lively atmosphere, and cultural richness makes it a popular destination for both relaxation and adventure.
From Panajachel, we took an Uber to San Jorge de la Laguna, where we spent the night with a Maya family. During our stay, we had the opportunity to converse with them and continue learning about the rich Maya culture. We wore traditional attire and enjoyed a homemade dinner with the family. This experience is highly recommended and is another great way to support local communities.
Day 13: Solola Market and San Juan de la Laguna.
We woke up early and took a bus with locals to the Sololá market. Sololá is a charming town in the Western Highlands of Guatemala, overlooking the stunning Lake Atitlán. Known for its vibrant indigenous culture, Sololá is a hub of traditional Mayan life, with colorful markets showcasing local crafts, textiles, and fresh produce. The town's steep, narrow streets and bustling atmosphere offer visitors an authentic glimpse into the daily lives of the Kaqchikel and Tz'utujil Maya people.
After exploring the town, we took a taxi back to Panajachel and then a motorboat to Hotel Uxlabil. This beautiful hotel is within walking distance of San Juan La Laguna, a picturesque village on the western shore of Lake Atitlán known for its vibrant art scene and strong Mayan culture. The town is renowned for its local artisans, who create beautiful textiles, paintings, and crafts using traditional methods and natural dyes. During our visit to this charming village, we went to a textile cooperative to learn more about their traditional methods. This experience is highly recommended.
Day 14: San Pedro de la Laguna.
The day started with rain, prompting us to adjust our plans to visit San Pedro de la Laguna, instead of Santiago de la Laguna. Nestled on the shores of Lake Atitlán in Guatemala's Western Highlands, San Pedro is renowned for its bohemian atmosphere and breathtaking natural beauty, attracting travelers seeking both relaxation and adventure. During our visit, we discovered "Playa de las Piedras," a hidden gem with stunning views that are well worth the effort to find. We wrapped up our day by joining locals in celebrating the "Day of the Family," an enriching cultural experience filled with warmth and festivity.
Day 15: From Atitlan to Guatemala City
We woke up before dawn to watch the sunrise while kayaking on the lake. After breakfast, a bus took us to Guatemala City, where we spent the night at the Barcelo Hotel. Our flight back to Texas was scheduled for 6 am the next morning.
Tips:
1. Guatemalan people are incredibly kind, honest, and hardworking, often seen carrying heavy loads and performing tough tasks. They have strong values and respect their elders and community leaders. It's important to show respect at all times.
2. When in Guatemala, it's best to embrace humility. While the country is generally safe, it's advisable to avoid wearing flashy jewelry, as it can attract too much attention.
3. Consider the logistics of money exchange carefully. Outside of Antigua, exchanging money can be challenging. It's recommended to travel from south to north, rather than the opposite direction, to facilitate easier access to currency exchange services. ATMs are available but may involve additional fees.
4. While credit cards are accepted in many places, be aware that transactions typically incur a 7% fee.
5. If you live at sea level. Consider staying several days in Antigua and around Atitlan before climbing the Acatenango. If you are fit, the problem is not physical, it is the altitude.
In conclusion, Guatemala's blend of historical depth and natural beauty makes it a unique destination, inviting travelers to discover the stories of its past and the vibrant culture that thrives in the present.
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